Dinner Diary Day 7: Potato, Leek, and Cabbage Soup

For many years, I have made the same soup for dinner on the night Grandma arrives for a visit. We all now refer to it as “Grandma’s welcome soup.” She drives 6 hours from Tucson to San Diego to be with us, munching on snacks or stopping at Five Guys in Yuma on the way. When you’ve traveled hundreds of miles across barren desert, eating only processed foods, a wholesome, comforting soup seems like the appropriate balm.

The fun coincidence about Grandma’s welcome soup is that she sent me the recipe for it. She clipped it out of the New York Times about fifteen years ago and mailed it with a Post-It that said something like, “This seems like it would be tasty and not too much work.” Grandma considers preparing meals to be one of life’s most difficult and thankless tasks. Just the fact that I am willing to cook something from scratch deserves a standing ovation in her book. This is one of the reasons I adore her.

The soup also happens to be my son’s favorite, and I make it for him regularly even when Grandma’s not here. I have cooked it so often over many years that I know the recipe by heart, a truly rare accomplishment for me, and I have figured out what changes you can get away with and which should be avoided. For example, I once forgot to buy cabbage and substituted with kale—not a disaster, but not recommended.

The cabbage really makes this soup special. You use Lots of cabbage—a whole small head, minus the core—and it gives the broth mild sweetness and bulk. Unlike many other potato leek recipes, you do not puree. Hurray for not having to puree! The textures of silky leeks, tender cabbage, and melt-in-your-mouth potatoes work perfectly together.

The final reason this soup rocks is that you do not need everything prepared before you begin (although that would be extremely organized and never discouraged). You can prepare the cabbage while the leeks cook, then prepare the potatoes while the cabbage cooks. The efficiency expert in me loves this.

I staunchly believe that soup alone can be a meal. It’s way too much work to not qualify as a meal. If I toil away over a hot stove for an hour or more, the contents of that pot will be THE MEAL. That said, I want very full bellies, so I usually serve crusty bread for dipping or crackers with hummus on the side.

Potato, Leek, and Cabbage Soup (adapted from the New York Times)

Serves 5

Time: 1 hour

3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 large or 3 small/medium leeks, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced

1 small head of green cabbage, thinly sliced

2 large cloves garlic, minced

2 russet potatoes, peeled and diced

2 cups vegetable stock

2 sprigs of thyme

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Parmesan for serving (optional)

Combine the butter and olive oil in a large pot or dutch oven over medium-high heat. When the butter is melted, add leeks. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are golden, about 7 minutes. While that’s happening, slice your cabbage and mince your garlic. A small head of cabbage should give you about 8 cups (or handfuls), but it’s fine if you’re under or over that amount. Once the leeks are golden, add the garlic and cabbage.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage begins to brown, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, peel and dice your potatoes. When the cabbage starts to brown, add the potatoes, sprigs of thyme, vegetable stock, and 4 cups of water. Season with 2 teaspoons of kosher salt.

Bring to a boil, then simmer with the lid mostly covering the pot (leave about a half-inch gap) until the potatoes break apart when tested with a fork, around 40 minutes. If things get too thick for your liking, you can add a small amount of water or stock. Taste for salt and add freshly ground black pepper to taste.

Serve with crusty bread and sprinkle with shredded parmesan if desired. Give Grandma a big hug.